Corkscrew Chronicles: Winery ownership changes can impact flavor and style

When I became seriously interested in wine and started to research producers, I attended many tastings to find products I liked. During this period of exploration, I familiarized myself with individual styles and quality levels. I also built an intimate knowledge of characteristics and cellaring potential for specific wineries. Many of the visionaries who defined wine trends for the last 45 years are very close to my age. They have come to a point in time when they necessarily hand off the business to their children or sell to another entity and move on to the next phase in their life. Regretfully, some have also passed on. During my wholesale wine sales/management career, Ste. Michelle Estates purchased Oregon's Erath and Napa's Conn Creek and Villa Mt. Eden. They also partnered with Marchese Antinori (the famous Tuscan producer) and purchased Stag's Leap Wine Cellars. Jackson Family Estates, founded by Jess Jackson, who developed the Kendall-Jackson brand, has been acquiring wineries, as has the giant conglomerate Constellation. The iconic Heitz family sold their winery a few years ago. More recently, Moet Hennessy purchased Joseph Phelps Vineyards and Shafer, Patz & Hall and Silverado Vineyards changed hands. While there are families like the Cakebreads (Cakebread Cellars), Esterers (Markko Vineyard) and Corleys (Monticello Vineyards) that are intent on carrying on the vision of their departed founders, others make a different choice, which sadly has delineated an era's end. It happens all over the world, since wine industry and human situations are identical. A wealth management firm has purchased a majority ownership in Sauternes Chateau Climens in Bordeaux. Guigal purchased Tavel's Chateau d'Aqueria. Vineyards have exchanged ownership in Burgundy for centuries, as powerhouse negociants, or wine merchants, such as Louis Jadot purchase new sites to add to their wine portfolio. So what does it mean when a winery or vineyard is sold? It depends on if the new owners intend to continue the style of wine the winery or site has become known for, or if they will strike out on their own based on their beliefs related to all the potential flavor impacts that can be chosen in the vineyard, during harvest, in the cellar and maturation. The first few releases might not change much, since some will already be in bottle and some in barrel from the former regime. The new owners will finish and bottle the barreled wine, so you won't see the most dramatic changes until the current harvest hits the retail shelves. Whites and roses will be the first, due to their shorter aging and maturation times. Any changes that will occur will be quickly apparent with these types. Vineyard purchases can mirror these changes with new minds guiding the winemaking. We all will experience a learning curve for ageability and the best time to enjoy the specific wines from new owners. Styles will quite likely change because someone else is making the wine and either the winemaker/owner or new owner will direct the winemaking team in their choices during the process based on their own concepts that effectively define style. These changes are not necessarily negative. It depends on the specific producer, their abilities and vision of what wine should be. It's reality that winery owners sell out, vineyards are acquired, winemakers move around for better opportunities and everyone is eventually replaced. There will always be changes that impact the liquid in the bottle and how it tastes. Keeping up with the industry news and tasting what you buy before you purchase in quantity will help ensure you get the wine that you are expecting, with all its nuances, complexities and flavors. Gary Twining is a certified wine educator who worked 34 years in the wholesale fine wine industry. Email him at winingwithtwining@hotmail.com.